From The Streets to The Runway: The Evolution Of Hip-Hop Fashion.

Published on 27 September 2024, by Shin Min-Hae | Seoul, South Korea.

From the streets of New York City in the 1970s to global runways and pop culture today, hip hop fashion has undergone a dramatic evolution, shaping the way people express themselves through clothing. What started as a grassroots style born from the African American, Latinx, and Caribbean communities has grown into a multi-billion-dollar industry that influences everything from high fashion to streetwear. More than just a way of dressing, hip hop fashion is a bold statement of identity, resistance, and creativity. The Origins: 1970s and 1980s Hip hop emerged in the Bronx during the late 1970s, where artists like DJ Kool Herc, Grandmaster Flash, and Afrika Bambaataa pioneered a new sound that combined funk, soul, and rap. Fashion in these early days was deeply tied to the street and gang culture, characterized by practical and affordable clothing that mirrored the rough, urban environment. Staples like Kangol hats, Puma sneakers, and Adidas tracksuits, often worn with oversized gold chains, became signature looks. These outfits not only reflected an effortless cool but also a sense of pride and power.

The “b-boy” and “b-girl” aesthetic took shape during this period as well. Breaking crews, like the Rock Steady Crew, were known for their oversized pants, colorful jackets, and sneakers. This casual, comfortable clothing allowed for the acrobatic dance moves central to breaking culture, combining function with style. Adidas tracksuits and shell-toe sneakers, immortalized by Run-D.M.C.'s hit song "My Adidas" in 1986, became symbols of hip hop culture globally. The Golden Age: 1990s The 1990s, often referred to as the Golden Age of hip hop, saw the rise of influential artists like Tupac Shakur, The Notorious B.I.G., Wu-Tang Clan, and Aaliyah. Their music was matched by distinctive and iconic styles. Baggy jeans, Timberland boots, oversized jerseys, bandanas, and leather jackets became fashion staples. The style was larger-than-life, mirroring the brash and bold nature of the genre itself.

Brands like Cross Colours, Karl Kani, and FUBU catered specifically to hip hop audiences, amplifying messages of empowerment, resistance, and Black pride. These brands, often started by Black designers, blurred the line between streetwear and high fashion, demonstrating that style was an essential part of the cultural revolution. FUBU (an acronym for "For Us, By Us") became a symbol of ownership and entrepreneurship within the community, with its founders promoting economic independence through fashion.

As the decade progressed, the influence of the hip hop mogul emerged, epitomized by Sean "Diddy" Combs and his Sean John clothing line, and Russell Simmons with Phat Farm. These brands dominated both urban fashion and mainstream media, as artists began to use their style as a business tool, entering the world of entrepreneurship through clothing. 2000s and 2010s: The Bling Era and Streetwear Dominance The 2000s introduced the “bling” era, a time when extravagance and luxury reigned supreme in hip hop fashion. Artists like Jay-Z, Lil Wayne, and Missy Elliott popularized high-end brands like Gucci, Louis Vuitton, and Prada. At the same time, custom jewelry, oversized diamond chains, grills, and flashy accessories became key elements of the “bling” aesthetic. Hip hop fashion entered a new realm where the line between music and luxury became increasingly blurred. The red carpets of the music industry saw a blend of streetwear and high fashion, with artists making bold statements by mixing the two.

Meanwhile, Kanye West’s 2004 debut album The College Dropout brought with it a new style sensibility. West mixed preppy fashion—think polo shirts and designer backpacks—with more traditional streetwear pieces. This “high-low” approach to fashion set the tone for the coming years, where high fashion and streetwear would fully intersect.

By the 2010s, streetwear brands like Supreme, Off-White, and A Bathing Ape (BAPE) rose to prominence, with collaborations between hip hop artists and fashion designers becoming common. Kanye West launched his Yeezy line in collaboration with Adidas, further solidifying the connection between streetwear and high fashion. His influence extended beyond fashion, as he showed that hip hop artists could be taken seriously as designers and innovators in the fashion world.

Today: A Global Movement Today, hip hop fashion is a global phenomenon that transcends race, class, and geography. Rappers like Cardi B, Travis Scott, and Megan Thee Stallion are redefining the genre’s style, with each artist bringing their unique perspective to the table. Travis Scott's collaboration with Nike and McDonald's, for example, is emblematic of how seamlessly hip hop style blends into every facet of popular culture.

Luxury fashion houses such as Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga, and Dior regularly collaborate with hip hop artists, showing the reciprocal influence between high fashion and street culture. In 2018, Louis Vuitton named Virgil Abloh, a longtime Kanye West collaborator and founder of Off-White, as its artistic director for menswear—a historic moment where streetwear fully crossed over into high fashion.

Social media platforms, particularly Instagram and TikTok, play a significant role in spreading hip hop fashion trends. These platforms democratize style, allowing fans and fashion enthusiasts to participate in the culture, whether they’re wearing luxury pieces or creating their own DIY fashion statements.